DIGITAL CAMERA RESEARCH
I researched digital cameras for 3 months
before making a decision and here are the
results of my research. My research focused
on cameras under $1,000, classified as "point-and-shoot".
You can get much better cameras for many
thousands of dollars in the Single Lens Reflex
(SLR) class, but usually these are for professionals,
and I did not review them:
1. Resolution is widely advertised as the biggest selling
point, but after 4 megapixels, other camera
features are more important than resolution.
A resolution of 3 Megapixels is a minimum
you should have. I recommend from 4 to 6
megapixels. Anything more than 6 megapixels
is a waste, in my opinion.
2. Shutter Lag Time is a problem with digital cameras. Shutter
lag is the time delay from when you press
the button to when the picture is actually
taken. Traditional "film" cameras
have a lag of approximately 0.1 seconds (mechanical
delays). Digital cameras have Shutter Lag
delays ranging from 0.5 seconds to 2 seconds,
with the average about 1.2 seconds. This
is totally unacceptable if you plan on taking any pictures with
action, or even subjects moving, like children
playing. By the time the picture is captured,
the subject has moved and you have missed
the shot. This Shutter Lag data is rarely
published because manufacturers don't want
you to know how bad their camera is.
3. Cycle Time is a also a problem for digital cameras.
Cycle time is the time delay from taking
one picture until the camera is ready to
take the next picture. Traditional "film"
cameras have a cycle delay that is mechanical
in nature (winding the film manually or using
a power-winder) and can be as fast as you
can wind the film, typically 0.3 seconds.
Digital cameras need time to process the
image for colour correction, then time for
JPG compression and then time to store the
image in the memory card. Digital camera
Cycle Times range from 1 second to 4 seconds.
This is totally unacceptable if you plan on taking pictures rapidly one
after the other. Again with action events,
you may get the first picture but you may
miss the second picture because the camera
is busy storing the image in the memory card.
This Cycle Time data is rarely published
because manufacturers don't want you to know
how bad their camera is.
4. Picture Quality varies widely from one camera model to the
next, even from the same manufacturer. The
variation is evident in the colour of the
pictures, not the pixel resolution. Some
cameras have better colour processing software
than others. Almost all digital cameras produce
very "flat" and "boring"
colour images, that look somewhat lifeless.
If you want bright, rich colour images, then
you need to make sure your camera will give
you these results. I think there is no advantage
in having a camera that produces poor quality
colour, so Picture Quality is a very important
consideration if you want pictures that look
great. I found two cameras that give excellent
colour and these two are my recommendations.
The Picture Quality information is something
that cannot be published by the manufacturer
because there is really no way in which to
measure it. The determination of picture
quality is largely subjective and depends
upon the viewer. Personally I like pictures
that are "alive" and stand out
whereas others may prefer "flat"
pictures that I would consider "boring".
Determining picture quality before choosing
a camera is the best idea, otherwise you
may find yourself buying then returning many
cameras before you get the results you want.
What would be really nice is a digital camera
rental store that rents different models
so you could "test-drive" them,
but no such store exists. You have to find
sample images and check the picture quality
for yourself.
5. Optical Zoom is an important feature to have because
digital zoom simply creates lower resolution
pictures and is of little value. The vast
majority of digital cameras provide 3x optical
zoom (3 times magnification). A few cameras
provide longer zoom lengths like 10x optical.
If you need to zoom in on your subject, the
3x optical zoom will dissappoint you. You
will not be disappointed with 10x optical
zoom.
6. Low Light Performance is the ability of the camera to take good
pictures in low light conditions, such as
indoors. This feature is important as many
fuctions, parties and social gatherings,
happen indoors. The indoor performance of
a digital camera is indicated by its range
of "film" sensitivities. Most cameras
provide equivalent "film" sensitivity
ranging from ASA 50 through ASA 400. Exceptional
indoor cameras provide "film" speeds
up to ASA 1600.
RESULTS:
I was unable to find the perfect camera that
had all the above qualifications. I was forced
to divide my decision into two categories,
and therefore I had to buy two cameras, one
for indoors and general outdoor photography,
and the second for specialized outdoor zoom
photography.
1. The best General Purpose Camera, that I found, is the Fujifilm Finepix F700. This camera is the fastest digital camera I could find with a Shutter Lag time of
0.5 seconds and a Cycle Time of 1.0 seconds.
It is amazingly fast. In addition to its
fast operation, it is an excellent indoors
camera with an ASA speed up to 1600. Also
it has 6 megapixel resolution and can take
350 pictures on a 512 Mb memory card. Also
the camera and its menu system is very easy
to use, and physically it is so small that
it fits nicely into a shirt pocket. In additon,
the picture quality and colour saturation
is excellent providing rich, dazzling pictures.
Overall this is my favourite camera, with
one exception - it only has 3x optical zoom
so it will not be suitable for zooming in
on far-away subjects. Why Fuji does not provide
this camera with 10x optics is beyond me.
They could corner the market with the "perfect"
camera if they did.
2. The second best Outdoor Camera, that I found, is the Olympus C-750 Ultra Zoom. This camera provides an excellent quality
10x optical zoom that allows remarkable close
ups. The camera has 4 megapixel resolution
and has excellent picture quality and colour
saturation (as good as if not better than
the Fujifilm F700). It also handles backlight
subjects better than most other cameras.
For outdoors, still photography, this camera
can't be beat. It is worth noting that the
later Olympus Models C-765 and C-770 have
a modified colour processor and the picture
colour in the later models is inferior to
the C-750. The first disadvantage of the
C-750 is the ASA 400 limit making it verys
slow to use indoors, that's why I recommend
it as an outdoor camera only. The second
disadvantage of the C-750 is the very slow
Shutter Lag Time of 1.5 seconds and the Cycle
Time of 3 seconds. You cannot take action
pictures with this camera with these times,
therefore it is best used for still photograhy
and scenery. The slow response times of the
C-750 make it frustrating to use but you
have to remind yourself of the other features
every time you take a picture so as to not
become disappointed. The picture quality
is well worth the delay in capturing the
images.
There are two excellent web sites that provide
camera reviews. The first site, Imaging Resource, I found to be most helpful, because the
site is easy to navigate and find the camera
specifications. The second site, Megapixel.net, I found had many sample images around Vancouver
BC, taken with different cameras, and I was
able to check the colour saturation and backlight
capability, something not available on the
first site. There are many other sites for
camera reviews, but I liked these two the
best.
SAMPLE IMAGES:
To see the full image, right-click the image
then click "view image".
Here is a sample of the backlight performance
of the C-750 (first image) compared to the
same scene taken with a typical digital camera
(second image):
Here is a sample of the 10x optical zoom,
and backlight performance of the C-750:
Here is a sample fo the rich colour saturation
of the C-750:
Here is a sample of the F700 indoor capability
in a dark room without flash (hand held).
This is unbelievable ASA 1600 performance.
The room was basically dark with only the
overhead lights. I used white-balance compensation
for incandescent lighting and hand-held this
as best as possible. There is a little camera
shake visible but any other camera would
have produced a very dark image (like 2 f-stops
lower):